The most obvious difference between food from Hunan and the cuisine of nearby Sichuan is the near absence of the eminently conspicuous Sichuan peppercorns. Most people know only of the spicier Hunan dishes, but the food can also be surprisingly light and the flavors delicate. There's also an assertive smokiness mixed in there, applying to some meats.
At Café Hunan, the innocuous-sounding stir-fried potatoes with hot and sour sauce is a knockout - and among the spiciest things on the menu. The Yin Yang Fish Head is a good counterpoint, completely covered on one side with yellow chilies and on the other with red ones. It looks incendiary, but is actually mild as long as you don't gnaw on the peppers. Also the stir-fried pork with Youxian dried bean curd and the stir-fried baby chicken. There's a lot to eat here so come hungry, on a date, or both.
Price: About HK$150 (£12) per person